Southend-on-Sea

From Royal Resort to People's Seaside

Southend's story as a resort began in the late 18th century when sea bathing became fashionable among the wealthy. Princess Caroline of Wales stayed here in 1801, briefly putting the town on the social map. But it was the arrival of the London, Tilbury and Southend Railway in 1856 that truly transformed the area, bringing thousands of East End day trippers to the shore and establishing the tradition of the Southend bank holiday excursion.

The original wooden pier opened in 1830 as a 180-metre landing stage for steamships that could not approach the shallow shoreline at low tide. As the town grew, so did the pier — the current iron structure was completed in 1889, extending over a mile into the estuary. The electric railway followed in 1890, and by the Edwardian era Southend was one of England's busiest seaside destinations, complete with the Kursaal amusement park, pleasure gardens and a thriving cockle trade in neighbouring Leigh-on-Sea.

What to See and Do

The pier remains the centrepiece. Walk the full 1.34-mile length for views across the Thames Estuary to the Kent coast, or ride the railway to the pierhead where a cafe and small museum chart the structure's turbulent history — including two devastating fires and its wartime role as a naval base. Back on shore, Adventure Island occupies the old Kursaal site with over 40 rides ranging from gentle teacups to the Rage roller coaster, all free to enter and pay-per-ride.

The beaches either side of the pier offer traditional bucket-and-spade territory. Three Shells Beach to the east is quieter and good for swimming, while the main stretch to the west bustles with arcades, food stalls and the Sealife Adventure aquarium. For something calmer, the old fishing village of Leigh-on-Sea is a 20-minute walk or one stop on the train, where cockle sheds on the Broadway serve some of the freshest shellfish in Essex.

Getting There and Practical Tips

The quickest route is the c2c train from London Fenchurch Street to Southend Central, taking 55 to 75 minutes depending on the service. Greater Anglia trains from Liverpool Street to Southend Victoria offer an alternative. Both stations are within a 10-minute walk of the seafront. By car, follow the A13 or A127 — allow extra time on sunny weekends when traffic builds along the approach roads.

Southend rewards a full day. Arrive mid-morning, walk the pier before the crowds build, have fish and chips on the seafront, then spend the afternoon at Adventure Island or on the beach. If the tide is out, the mudflats attract wading birds and expose rock pools. Bring cash for the arcades — many of the older machines still run on coins — and layers for the estuary breeze, which picks up in the afternoon even on warm days.